Montagny, 1er Cru Vieux Château, Laurent Cognard, 2018


There’s always a full weight to Montagny, creamy Chardonnay to the fore. Little wonder that it was a restaurant staple in the 1990s, as people knew exactly what they were going to get in the bottle. Now, growers strive for a bit less of that richness, the aim is to strike a balance with some wet stone elements to the fruit.


"With all of the problems in Burgundy – adverse weather conditions, tiny stocks, global demand, there is a white wine crisis on the horizon. When I say on the horizon, the problem appears to be a year off, but the frantic buying on behalf of the on-trade and canny retailers means that we are most likely past the peak of this activity and into the slim pickings zone. White stocks will have to last you three years, assuming the 2022 harvest is plentiful and acceptable. I bought more 2020 white Burgundy than in 2016, 2017, 2018 & 2019 combined.  This situation rather focuses the mind.  It means that Australia should pick up a large number of prestige Chardonnay orders, and wines like the De Wet above will do a lot of everyday work on behalf of white Burgundy fans.  It also means that rare parcels of seriously delicious white Burgundy are being snapped up on release, bringing me to a true beauty in the shape of this sublime Montagny. With a discreet hint of smoky oak over a lush, expansive mid-palate, there is a Meursault-like demeanour about this inexpensive creation, and it further underlines the terrific work done by Cognard in Montagny. Perhaps you can pull back on opening stop flight Côte d’Or whites, deploying them when the time is right, and fill in the gaps with De Wet and this wine – both will not let you or your guests down, and they will also save you a few pounds in the process." - Matthew Jukes, April 2022

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